A Hello from Juan

I got off a combi at the bus stop in my site this evening about 7:30. It was just on the cusp of darkness so I grabbed my things to quickly make my way home when I heard my name being called. "Carolina! Carolina!" I turned and saw one of the students from the special education school where I work excitedly waving from the front seat of another combi waiting to take him home to the neighboring caserio of Chiquitoy. Juan is 23 years old and the "cool guy on campus" to a lot of his fellow students. He has lots of "swag" and has a girlfriend at the school. 

The Dehydration Conundrum

Unfortunately, dehydration seems to just be a staple in my life in Peru. Between the heat, walking and traveling, and scarcity of water, especially clean drinking water, I feel at least a little dehydrated most days. 

However, between boiling water, a Camelbak water purifier I brought with me, and bottled water in stores, it is not impossible to have access to enough drinking water. The real complication is then access to bathrooms. Bathrooms for public use or even client use are scarce in rural communities if they exist at all. And if they do exist, they may be in really poor, disgusting shape. This means I need to be able to not go to the bathroom unless I am at home. Long traveling and bus rides of 3-4 hours could also happen without access to a bathroom. So if I were to drink the water my body wants, I would need to have bathroom access. This leaves me, almost even purposefully, dehydrated most of the time. And it certainly increases my adoration for water. And bathrooms. Especially clean bathrooms. 

Visit in Ucupe

Last night I spent the night with my old host family in Ucupe. This is the 3rd time I have visited since moving in late January. 

The excitement of the street was a turkey that managed to climb up to the roofs of the houses. He was hanging out above my host family's back patio. Harry, a young neighbor, climbed up to chase the turkey down. Always an exciting adventure in the campo!  

The culprit

 Then, as usual, my 6-year-old niece Dayana asked to sleep with me. So after brushing teeth, we went to crawl in bed. Though the summer is ending, the heat has not let up too much yet and even with an open window, there was no breeze or air movement. When she sleeps, Dayana just emits heat. She always had. So I was too hot to sleep and Dayana was taking up a big portion of the bed. At 1:30am I thought about carrying here back to the other room where everyone else sleeps. Then I realized I was sleeping the way they do every night, only I just had a 6 year old. My host mom and an adult neighbor sleep in a twin bed together. My aunt and my 8 year old niece sleep in a twin bed together. And Dayana sleeps in a bed with her mother. So why was I complaining?? I rolled over, made a pillow out of a sweatshirt, and Dayana and I slept through the night. 

Dayana and me the next morning

Honking: The Background Noise of Peru

In any given major city in Peru, there is a continuous background noise 24 hours a day of honking.  There also isn't a law on types of horns so people can install any kind of loud, musical, deafening, or any kind of horn they so please. This leaves us with train horns and jack-in-the-boxes cruising through town sharing their personal sound for all to hear.  I used to wonder why cars seemed to be continually honking but I have now developed a scientifically proven (okay, it's really just me being amused by myself) explanation of the honking.  

There are 4 meanings behind the incessant honking. 

1. The "I'm Driving Honk". This honk is saying, "Weeeeee! Look at me, I'm driving! Yep, that's right! I'm behind the wheel and am driving. Whooo hoooo!" I think of this honk like Maxwell the pig from the Geiko commercials. 

2. The Warning Honk.  This honk is saying, "Watch out! I'm driving and am not concerned with how fast I drive, which lane I'm in - what, what's a lane!?!? I don't know but that light is red and I'm going to speed on through.  Accelerating is fun. I'm not looking out for you if you're walking, driving, or riding by, I'm just plowing down the road so I suggest you maybe look for me. I'd rather not hit and hurt someone today but it's not really my fault - I'm telling you I'm coming!!!" 

3. The Taxi Honk. This honk is saying, "Hi there - I'm a taxi! I want to give someone a ride. Do you want a ride??  Maybe you?  Oh Dios mio you're white?!?!? You must need a taxi because you're white! Why aren't you getting in my taxi? Did you not know you're white? Because you really are! And I'm a taxi!" 

4. The Red Light Honk.  This honk happens at every stop light the second the light turns green.  Unlike in the US, it is not a honk to remind someone the light has changed if they have not reacted in an appropriate amount of time. No, it's just a obligatory honk as soon as the light changes or even a second before.  So intersections with stop lights are busy places. 

Stop Signs and Speed Bumps 

Stop signs are rarely seen in Peru. And even when there is a stop sign, it is treated more as a yield sign if observed at all.  Instead, there are frequently large speed bumps before the intersection. This forces the vehicle to slow down before it crosses or turns into other traffic.  The Panamerican highway, the major highway on the coast of the country that stretches from Chili in the south to Ecuador in the north, runs through the middle of many small, rural towns.  The portions through those towns are dotted with speed bumps.  When riding 12 hr buses, I was once annoyed by the constant staccato of the speed bumps but after living in one of those small towns dissected by the Panamerican, I became very thankful for them.  They are the only things that control the speed of traffic in Peru and therefore prevent the highway, that frequently has children, elderly, and anyone in between crossing it, from being even more of a dangerous death trap than it already is.   

Transportation: How I Get Around

With my mom's visit to site in the beginning of March, I was reminded how different and therefore interesting the forms of transportation here can be. Below are the forms of transportations I use regularly. While on vacation with visitors to Peru, I have also traveled by airplane and train, though those are not usual for me.  

Omni-Buses - Omnibuses are the double-decker buses that go between major cities. There are numerous companies. Movil Tours, Cruz del Sur, America, ITTSA, Linnea, Emtrafesa and the list goes on. These bus trips usually take between 3 and 24 hours, depending on where you're going. And they can be smelly and disorganized or rather luxurious depending on how much you're willing to spend. I take a mediocre to cheap bus for the 3-4 hour trip between Trujillo and Chiclayo but am willing to splurge fora nicer bus line for any of the overnight 10-12 hour trips I take. 

Bus and Mini Bus - Minibuses are what I would think of when I think of a tour bus.  They are usually a bit dirty and not in top condition. These run busy routes between frequented areas. For example, I take a minibus between my site of Cartavio and Trujillo. It is a 33-seat bus though they pack us on like sardines with up to 15 more standing in the narrow aisle and maybe 8-10 more children infant to 8 years old sitting in their parents lap.  This hour trip costs S/ 3 (or about $1).  

Inside of a Combi from Cartavio to Chocope (20 min)

Colectivos / Combis - Colectivos and Combis are smaller forms of transportation for around an urban area or between smaller commu I ties up to maybe a 2 hour trip. Combis can be larger vehicles, close to the size of an omnibus though they have a different type of seating, but usually Combis are hollowed out vans with more seating installed to fit between 14 and 20 people when filled to capacity. Combis pick up and drop off people at they go.  You pay depending on how far you travel and prices are usually S/ 3.50 or less, depending on the trip.  

Contrarily, Colectivos have one starting place and one final destination with a fixed price for the ride. They are usually vans that seat 7 people or cars that seat 5 (not including the driver). A colectivo goes between my site of Mocupe and the capital city of Chiclayo for S/ 3.50 

Paradero (bus stop) for combis and colectivos in Cartavio

Taxi - Taxis are available in the major cities.  While there are taxi companies who are more reputable to use, any car can be a taxi.  Taxi signs are sold right on the street.  The biggest difference in the taxis of America and the taxis in Peru is how we pay.  In America there is a meter that calculates the cost depending on how long the ride takes.  And so taxi drivers will occasionally take longer routes, drive a little more slowly, or sit through lights to try to run the meter higher.  Instead, in Peru a price is agreed upon before going and does not change.  And for those who know the area, there are guidelines to follow.  For example, any taxi within central Chiclayo should be S/ 3. Taxi from Trujillo to Huanchaco should be S/ 12 - 15 and so on.  

Mototaxi - A mototaxi is a rickshaw of types, created by taking a small motor bike and attaching a covered two-person seat to the back.  It is amazing what you can fit on a moto.  3adults and 2 children; a stroller riding in the back; a mattress fastened on top; and the list goes on and on.  There are no limits to what they are willing to try. 

In any of these forms of transportation, it is possible and not uncommon to run out of gas, break down, or have an accident.  All part of the thrill of transportation in Peru.  

Absurdness is Relative

In the same thinking as my writing in my post “No One Can Understand,” it is true that there are many facts of life in a different culture in a different state of development that we do not automatically understand.  And after living very much in that world for about 10 months, I sometimes take that fact for granted.  While planning visits to Peru, I was asked two questions that seem quite reasonable through our US perspective but sounds nothing short of absurd to me through my Peru perspective.  So I thought those things would be interesting to share. 

1.  “Should we rent a car while I’m there?” 

       When traveling in a first world nation, renting a car to do so can be a great way to go.  So when thinking of being in Peru for 2 weeks and visiting various places in 4 departments during that time, having a car to do so would make since, right?  Until you take into account the horrific driving behavior, few personal cars, and state of many of the cars on the road.  Driving or even riding in Peru is quite seriously taking your life in your own hands (see Honking post coming soon).  Lanes do not exist, including lanes of oncoming traffic.  Until there is an oncoming vehicle forcing you to stay on the other side, it is just more open road.  Stop lights, speed limits and any other traffic sign is merely a suggestion.  After even just seeing the Panamerican highway or being in a rural community for even one day, it is easy to see that renting a car to travel Peru is not a great option.  From that perspective, I found this question humorous.  But from the US perspective, it makes good sense. 

2. “I think I’m going to bring a hair dryer. Wait, do you have a hair dryer?”

Likewise, my initial reaction to this question was to giggle.  I have very few electronics by American standards.  My electricity use is 100% accounted for in keeping my phone and computer charged and when I have lights turned on.  I do not use anything else electric and just with those I have noticeably increased my family’s monthly electricity bill.  The only items my family uses that have to be plugged in are the rice cooker, the occasional use of the microwave and occasional use of the refrigerator, occasional use of a fan, and the almost constant use of the television.  Think about the number of electrical appliances in any given American home: fans, lamps, hair dryers/straightners/curling iron/curlers, iron, washing machine, dryer, dish washer, refrigerator, toaster, microwave, mixer, computers, internet… 

The 2^nd thought about the hair dryer is it is hot.  I live in a hot coastal community without any air conditioning.  90 degrees without any air conditioning is hot.  The idea of standing there and blowing hot air onto my head and into the room for 10 minutes sounds cringe worthy.  And even in the winter when the heat wouldn’t knock you out, you then go about your day, walking a few miles just from organization to organization for your job – sweat, humidity, life.  Drying your hair would take a lot of work for a few seconds of pretty hair. 

If you knew me in the states the idea that I may have a hair dryer to occasionally blow out my curls is not absurd.  But given the context of my life, I will happily throw my frizzy curls into a bun and go on with my day ;) 

No One Can Understand

Many things I have been fortunate to do in life have the belief that they are so special, so unique, that no one can relate to them.  I have many times heard the schpeel “Look around this room.  These people sitting to your left and right will be some of your closest friends for the rest of your life.  No one else in the world will understand the experiences you have had, the things you have seen, heard, and done.”

            On the one hand, this is true.  An example from my months in training comes to mind.  A group of us were in the rural community of Zaña to give practice charlas and whatnot.  While sitting on the street waiting for a bus, I noticed a man casually walking down the empty street with a cow on a rope leash.  A nonchalantly commented, “Look, there is a man walking his cow.”  My friend Scotney turned around and burst out in laughter, saying “Despite that very accurate description, that is not what I expected to see.”  It was exactly that – a man walking his cow down the street with a rope leash. The words say exactly what is happening but it was not a common sight and therefore did not invoke a known image or idea.  We might not be as surprised now after almost a year in Peru where such an occurrence happens quite regularly.   Another example is from Matt’s visit to my community of Ucupe.  After experiencing my Catholic intervention, Matt made the comment that had he not been there, he never could have accurately pictured nor completely understood that scene. 

            So I understand the truth or theory behind the idea that we, as people, do not know or do not understand what is foreign to us.  But I disagree with the further notion that no one can relate, no one can understand, and no one will have any interest in those different experiences. Quite contrarily, some of my favorite conversations or discoveries have been with my family and friends back home as they experience Peace Corps and Peru with me.  Once while talking with my mom about how I ask her for advice on things I know are foreign to her, she commented on how she is on this journey with me.  The idea of people at home being on a journey with me was a comforting and beautiful thought.  As I share my experiences in Peru through my blog, pictures, and conversations, I have had the opportunity to also learn about family members’ and friends’ lives through their responses.  They very much can relate, can understand, and are interested.  Some of these connections are below.

            After reading a blog about integration and community upon moving to new sites, my grandmother equated it to moving with my grandfather and her young children to different towns with the responsibility of establishing the family in that community where everything is unknown and knew.

            My mom compared my experience of living a Peruvian style of life to what it kind of felt like to visit her aunt in a home.  For those hours while she was there, my mom left her world outside the doors and entered into the culture and world of Penick.  How and when they ate, a slower pace, what they spoke about, ect.  Through that experience, she understood how I felt to be living in a world other than my own.

            To say others are not interested in hearing things they do not fully understand is to limit our perspectives to a very selfish level.  I will never understand or know the ins and outs of chemistry, biology, pharmacotherapy, and the elements that go into my boyfriend’s study and work in pharmacy.  However, that does not mean I am not interested in hearing what he wants to share.  One night when I was living in Columbia, he came over for dinner after a test.  Upon arriving and noticing he was agitated, he took a few minutes to vent about a frustrating question on the test.  Granted, I did not understand one word he used while referencing the difference between this drug and that, but either way I had interest to hear about what was part of his life.  We are limited to our experiences and our knowledge, but what makes us human, what gives us community, is to still be interested in those experiences and knowledge of others; thus, we learn and grow together. 

How My Life in the Peace Corps is like the Hunger Games

Peru is a centralized country.  To only see the capital city of Lima is to see any big city in any number of countries. There are historic areas. There are poor, underdeveloped areas.  There are well-to do, modern areas.  But to leave the capital city and travel out is to enter another world. 

This is mimicked in the capital city of each department. Peru has 15 departments, like states. And each department has a capital city.  In a capital city you can find things that do not exist outside.  Wi-fi. Taxis. American restaurants. Malls or shopping centers. Refrigerated goods. People in a capital city have had more opportunities so you see things like little girls leaving dance practice in pink tights and black leotards.  You have more conversations with educated and traveled people. There is not a layer of dust covering the sidewalk and every building, and usually a dusty film on each person. The smells are less invasive.  Even the people are different - more diverse, more European.  

But I cannot stay too long. For I am from the campo, I do not belong in the capital. I can not afford the fancy living of the capital. So I board my overcrowded, dirty bus and head back to the campo. 

Life in the campo isn't so bad. The people are nice and everyone has fallen into step of a different kind of living here.  The workers in the campo produce goods used by those in the capital - you have the areas that produce milk for the conglomerate Gloria.  The area that grows rice. The area that has artisans the capital brag about but don't dare join. Life in the campo is tranquilo, kept at bay by the capital.  Life is happy here, though I enjoy my privileged weekly trip to the capital to buy the foods and goods I cannot get in site. Yes, life is fine here...I just hope I never get chosen as tribute. 

Everyone's Famous in a Small Town

"Suddenly everyone is staring at you.  They point you out, analyze you and share opinions.  You're the new kid in town, and you made quite a splash when you landed. Who said being the center of attention was easy?  I'm not talking about the sort of fame that's short-lived and fleeting, but the kind that endures and makes you an icon. It's quite a task."

I read the quote above in an architect magazine on a flight from Cuzco to Lima.  That description really struck me as an accurate way to describe moving to an indigenous rural pueblo as a white Peace Corps volunteer.  I am stared at, gawked at, laughed at, admired, and watched with regularity. And this does not fade away, but after 10 months remains constant. To go into capital cities is to loose this.  There I am able to blend in more.  I don't feel the stares as I walk or the constant questioning of "Where are you from!?!"  To be white in a rural pueblo is to make a splash when you land there, a splash that endures and makes you an icon, wanted or not.  

Adventures of a Southern Belle in the Peace Corps

Before leaving South Carolina, I had one acquaintance comment that she didn't think I would make it in rural Peru. When I asked her why, she told me it was because I was girly and enjoyed the finer things in life. Well, she might have underestimated me a bit but she did have that part right. I do enjoy the girlier and finer things in life. That doesn't mean I can't survive in the campo, but it does mean I have some funny or ridiculous adventures along the way. Please enjoy my beauty blunders and lessons learned. 

I tried a hair conditioning treatment of avocado, banana, and egg one time. The directions say to "purée" the avocado and banana in a food processor. Not having a food processor, I did the best I could with a spoon. The results were a pretty chunky mess but I continued anyway. Not only did the writer not think of a non- food processor option, I highly doubt they had considered the effects of a bucket bath versus a normal shower with hot water and water pressure. My bucket bath with cold water did a poor job of getting the mixture out of my hair. My hair did feel good for a few days, but I'm not sure it was worth the bugs that pursued the sweet smell of my hair for hours after. 

Before going on a beach vacation, I thought I would treat myself in the capital city to a wax. I will spare the details but I will just say I was traumatized and do not suggest it. Just because you can find most things available in a capital city does not mean they are the same or that you should do it. Lesson learned. 

A ribbon from a care package makes a great hair bow to make me feel better about my unshowered pony tail. 

After a long week, a movie night with a Ryan Gosling movie and a bottle of wine is the perfect Friday night activity - regardless of the country you're in. 

Living on the coast has an added benefit of being able to find pumice rocks right on the beach. Pedicure anyone? 

I brought just a couple Lily things with me. After feeling too campo for a bit, putting on a Lily top instantly makes me feel more put together and like myself again. 

Pinterest can become more than interest boards - it can be a way of life. Beware. 

And finally, if you leave home without a brush and go 10 weeks without getting one - a S/ 1 comb seems amazing! 

Special thanks to my amazing Mama for care packages with Lily, Clinique, hair conditioner, and more to keep me properly groomed while in Peru!  

Peru Life: What I Eat and Drink

Sure I miss steak, sandwiches, salads, pimento cheese, and the list could go on and on. But I am pretty lucky to be in Peru - a country known for its gastronomy. Peru is in the Guinness Book of World Records for the most "platos typicos" or typical dishes with 450.  Below is an incomplete explanation of what food I most commonly eat and drink. Really, my day to day food is just a lot of chicken and rice with potato or yuca. A lot of chicken and rice. Like, a lot. 

Food 

Breakfast: 

bread with butter and jelly - bread is brought fresh each day and is a staple for breakfast 

 "Quacker" oatmeal - oatmeal is a common breakfast drink.  Frequently not called "avena" which means oatmeal but called by the brand name "Quacker". They make a large quantity of oatmeal that is extremely watery so it is actually a drink rather than the way I am used to having oatmeal 

Cafe con leche - my favorite part of breakfast is coffee with milk. Although there are South American countries who grow delicious coffee, the majority of South American countries still use instant coffee mix such as NesCafe by Nestlé 

If eating out for breakfast in a capital city, there are 2 customary choices and after those it depends on the place. Those choices are Americano and Continental. The Americano includes bread and butter, juice, coffee, and eggs either fried or scrambled. It usually costs around S/ 10 ($4).  

Main Dishes: 

Arroz con Pollo - though essentially every meal consists of rice and chicken, this a special rice and chicken dish.  The rice is prepared with ????  Other common variations of Arroz con Pollo are Arroz con Pato (duck) and Arroz con Cubierta (lamb)  

Lomo Saltado - lomo is strips of beef and Saltado refers to the sautéed onion and veggies it is topped with.  Lomo Saltado is typically served over a bed of rice with a side of French fries.  There is also Pollo Saltado  

Aji de Gallina - aji is the name of peppers in Peru, something Peru is known well for, especially the hot ricotto pepper.  I am not a fan of spicy food but yellow aji is very tasty!  Aji de Gallina is a chicken dish made with pulled chicken mixed in with a sauce of yellow aji, bread and/or crackers and milk.  The chicken and sauce mixture is laid on top of two potato rounds and a bed of rice and is topped with half a hard boiled egg and an olive. When I first got to Peru, I would eat this dish but did not enjoy it. Now I crave it and try to order it whenever I can! 

Tallerines - are a noodle similar to fettaccini noodles.  They are prepared as either Tallerines Rojos with tomato sauce or Tallerines Verdes with a basil and broccoli sauce.  I prefer Tallerines Verdes.  

Cubano - A Cubano is a small portion of rice topped with a fried egg, fried banana, and typically served with French fries. 

It is normal for any dish to be served with beans, lentils, potato, yuca and/or a salad.  Yuca is a course root.  And salads in Peru are a little different. A common salad consists of only tomatoes and cucumber slices.  Another common salad is beat salad made with small cubes of beets covered in mayonnaise. In site, the only salad dressing I have ever seen used is mayonnaise. Another typical salad is just thin slices of radishes. Essentially any fresh vegetable eaten is considered the meal's salad and is not common.  Peace Corps volunteers often bg host families for more greens in their diets.  

Chifa: Chifa is Peruvian Chinese food and is easy to find in any capital city.  my favorite Chifa dish is Arroz Chaufa.  Arroz Chaufa is a stir fry made with a cut up omelet, sliced green onion, sliced hot dog, and either chicken or shrimp mixed with rice and soy sauce. It is frequently served either with soup or wantons. 

Desserts: 

Arroz con Leche - is literally what is says, a dish made with rice and milk and lots of lots of sugar. It is a common treat at children's birthday parties. 

Masamuya - a type of really thick jello 

Geletina - more typical jello especially common in summer months 

Keke - pronounced "cakay" reminds me of pound cake. So obviously, this is one of my favorites 

Birthday Cake - one of the biggest parts to any celebration is the impressive cake. Cakes are usually big and impressively decorated 

Picarones - picarones are fried rings of dough served with a honey syrup. These are typically served by street venders and a favorite treat of mine. 

Soups: Soups are served with many meals the most common is Caldo.  

Caldo de Gallina - Caldo de Gallina is a soup with chicken and veggies in the broth. Remember, we eat the whole chicken here so your Caldo could have a chicken neck or foot ready for you to eat. 

Famous Dishes: 

Cuy - Peru is well known for eating ginea pig, but it is not a staple of any diet.  This is because ginee pig is a delicacy, usually eaten for special birthdays or celebrations. The pigs are eaten when they grow to full size so I see many more pigs being raised in cuy houses than I do on the table. 

Anticucho - anticucho is skewered beef and my favorite anticucho de corazon, which is skewered beef heart. It is marinated and then cooked on a grill and typically served its potato or sweet potato, and a piece of choclo, a type of yellow corn with big kernels. 

Ceviche - ceviche is fish and/or seafood chemically cooked with lime juice and aji. Here ceviche can get pretty spicy. It is also usually served with sweet potato and/or yuca. 

Alpaca - Peru is also known for its population of llama, alpaca, and vicuña.  Therefore, alpaca meat is eaten in the mountainous regions. 

Menu - Menu is what a restaurants set menu is called. It usually includes a soup or a salad, a main entree, a desert, and a drink for anywhere between S/ 8 - 25 and usually offers two or three options for each course or at least the main dish.  

Drinks 

Refresco and Juices - pineapple, papaya, apple, orange, mango, lemonade Peru has a plethora of delicious fruits and this results in numerous fruit juices and refrescos.  Many Peruvian meals are accompanied with a juice or refesco.  

Chicha - an alcoholic drink made by fermenting corn. The drink comes out a milky orangey color.  It is more typical in the Sierra (mountain region).  A place selling chicha usually will have a long pole with a plastic bag on top to signal they have the Peruvian drink. 

Chicha Morada - a refresco made from purple corn with sugar added. While Chicha is alcoholic, chicha morada is not.  I really like chicha morada! 

Gaseosa - though the word "gaseosa" means soft drink, it frequently refers to the yellow syrupy drink of Inka Kola.  Inka Kola is an old Peruvian staple, thought they were bought by Coca Cola in 1996.  Others "gaseosa" choices are Coca Cola, referred to as "Coca," and sprite.  You can find Coca Cola Zero in capital cities but, much to my sadness, Diet Coke (called Coca Cola Light in South America because of the negative connotation of the word "diet" here) is a rare find in Peru. 

Cervesas - Cervesa is beer. There are 3 common beer choices - Cristal, Pilsen, and Cuzquena.  They all are similar to Bud Light except for the other variations of Cuzquna such as trigo (wheat) negro (black) and red lager which are usually available in capital cities.  Sometimes a few local microbrews can be found in capital cities and nicer restaurants such as Sierra Andina and Tres Cruces.  Likewise, there are a few hostals in touristy areas that brew their own beer such as Dragonfly.  

Pisco - Pisco is a native of Peru. Made using fermented grapes, Pisco is a type of brandy. In the south of Peru, in the department of Ica there are many vineyards and wineries that produce Pisco. Specifically, the town of Pisco, Peru.  The popular drink of Peru is the Pisco Sour, made with Pisco, sour mix, and egg white. Pisco Sour day is February 2.  

Wine - Wine is not common to find in rural Peru but the wine Peru does produce tends to be very, very sweet. 

Interesting note on drinking: Peruvians do not customarily drink throughout a meal as Americans. We will start a meal with a drink, drink throughout a meal, and finish with one as well. Peruvians tend to eat without anything to drink and then have one small glass that is drank quickly at the end of the meal.  They also do not drink water and drink less than Americans over all.  Until we are talking about beer, and then it's a whole other story.  

A Comment on Honesty

While browsing some artisan shops in Trujillo this weekend I met a couple from Daytona Beach.  The woman is Peruvian and they were here visiting her mother in Trujillo.  After chatting about their visit and my work here in the Peace Corps, she reminding me to be very careful and watch my things.  This is a warning I get from most Peruvians everyday, but she then added the reason why.  "Honesty does not exist with my people," she said with a look of disappointment. I have already written a post on the absence of the virtue of honesty in Peru and how that results in a culture of mistrust. It was really interesting to get to speak to a Peruvian who now lives in America on the difference in honesty between the two cultures.

Language is Not Necessary to Connect

On Friday we celebrated the International Day of Down Syndrome at my site's CEBE (school for special education).  One of our student's sister came with her 6 year old daughter to join in the celebration.  Neither our student nor his sister speak or hear, but I had a full conversation about our lives and shared a few jokes through gestures, noises, and lots of facial expressions.  It has never been more true that language - Spanish, English, or even proper sign language, is needed to communicate.

A Little Success Goes a Long Way

In Mocupe, upon being told of 20 students, 10 boys and 10 girls, that were having a particularly hard time either with behavior or with grades due to difficulties at home, I formed two self-development small groups.  The students were mandated to attend by the school director and partnering teacher.  The first day I met with the students I was so nervous.  Here were students experiencing problems I could barely fathom and they were being told they had to attend my group.  All I could think is that they would not be interested in what I had to say or spending their otherwise free time with me. 

By the end of the first day, I could not feel more differently.  The girls group began as I thought it would.  8 of the 10 girls showed up late and unenthusiastically to our set meeting time.  By some magic or miracle, the 8 girls finished the session with much more interest, even asking if they could invite other girls to join our group the next week and thanking me for my time.  The girls group grew to over 20 students.  Encouraged, I prepared for the boys group.  I think maybe 7 of the boys showed up but those who came seemed more interested. The group would later dwindle to really only 4 committed members. It wasn’t what happened then that surprised me though.  It was what happened when I returned to the school later for another event.  Another boy who hadn’t been in my group came up and asked what we were doing in those meetings.  Waiting to discover his angle in asking, I gave broad, general answers.  But he pressed on until I was really explaining the plan of the group to him with themes of self-esteem, positive communication, and planning for the future.  He then looked at me and asked (in Spanish), “And how do I do that?  How do I become a better person?  Because I know the teachers think I am a trouble maker.”  It was such a genuine request from a 14-year-old boy who was, in fact, looked at as a trouble maker.  And in front of 3 other students no less!  And with that he and I and the 3 other students sat down right there on the concrete and did the entire lesson from my group over again.  I then invited them to join the next big group meeting and walked the whole way home with a heart fuller than it may have ever been before. You come to accept you’re not going to change the world or maybe even make a real difference during your work in the Peace Corps – but I had at least made a tiny start of a difference in one student in one high school in one community.

Overwhelming Need

As someone who holds a degree in psychology and a graduate degree in social work, I am going to go out on a limb and say there are circumstances where the guidance counselors, social workers, and psychologists employed by our, referring to the US, education system are looked at as “fluff” positions.  Or that is the way we sometimes treat them by providing only 1 social worker or 1 school psychologists to an entire district or group of schools.  However, my experience in Peru has demonstrated, without a doubt, the need for such staff.  I have now worked in schools in the district of Lagunas / Mocupe and Santiago de Cao / Cartavio.  Within those two districts, I have met directors, professors, students, and parents from upwards of 10 high schools and the conversation is scarily similar.  Upon discussing my education and background and my role in the community as a youth development volunteer, I am then told of numerous students in great need of an advocate, a counselor, a friend. 

Yamily, a sophomore, had her father diagnosed with AIDS and subsequently started misbehaving in school.
Johnny’s mom died and he now sleeps through all classes except for when he wakes up to stab himself with his pencil or do other self-injurious behaviors.
One student was abused by her father her entire childhood yet no one can figure out why she has low grades.
Fernando drinks every night and weekend and is the ring leader for keeping boys out all night just to come home sick from alcohol.  He just turned 14.
Leydi is 12 years old and is living alone after the death of her mother and separation from her abusive father.

One child quite school after elementary school because of her physical disability, despite her great desire to learn. 

And the list goes on and on.  The school staff includes a director, classroom teachers, auxiliars (classroom assistants or hall monitors/guards depending on the school), and a secretary.  In these rural towns on the coast of Peru there are no counselors, social workers, nurses, psychologists, resource teachers – the schools are missing an entire team of support we are fortunate to have in the US. 

So what happens when a young American with degrees in psychology and social work walks through the doors to serve as a volunteer working with the students on themes of healthy lifestyle and preparation for the world of work??  I am quickly told a handful of such cases and asked, if not begged, to meet with those students, to meet with those parents, to help. 

It is, in a word, overwhelming.  I am but one person to an entire district of schools.  I am but one volunteer who has been told to immediately end discussions of psychology or therapy work to focus on the “packaged” Peace Corps development programs focusing on sexual health and vocational orientation.  But how do you say no to a plea for help when you came to do just that?  I have not found that answer and so I do not say no.  Instead I am working with teachers, directors, and parents that are willing and wanting to maybe just scratch the surface on their student/child’s current situation.  But that is all I can do.  I do not have the answer.  I simply see the overwhelming need for advocates, for counselors, for psychologists in a community that has never had them. 

Two Powerful Words - Thank You

This afternoon I had another planning meeting with a teacher from the local high school in my site of Cartavio.  The only public high school in the community, IE Cartavio has around 700 students so needless to say there is plenty of work to be done.  This teacher and I are currently working together on a few projects that should start next week and the first of April including a Red Cross student group (Cruz Roja Peruana here), a district wide student peer-to-peer health promoter group, and a mentoring group for freshman boys with behavioral problems.  After wrapping up a few hours of planning and logistics, she asked me about what it is like to live here, in Cartavio, far away from my home.

After our chat, she simply looked at me and said, "Thank you."  I must have looked surprised by her simple but powerful statement as she then continued and told me she knows it must be hard to be far away but how thankful she is that I came and am working in her community.

I left the school with a full heart today and look forward to continuing helping such a motivated teacher bring positive opportunities to her students and community.

Valentines Day Health Post Event!

In January and February I worked with the local health post, Puesto Salud Santa Rosa, on a project for girls age 14-20 in the community who are pregnant.  On Feb 14, Día del Amor or St. Valentina's Day, we hosted a workshop (taller) called La Dulce Espera (The Sweet Wait).  The doctors and obstetricians gave charlas (talks) on health considerations of pregnancy, especially in adolescence, and I gave charlas on the theme Amarte a ti mismo, Amar a tu bebe - Cuidar de si mismo, Cuidar a tu bebe (Care for yourself, Care for your baby Love yourself, Love your baby).  The workshop was held at a local hall in the community of Santa Rosa in Cartavio. 

The event was sponsored by the health post, the municipality, and the Peace Corps.  For the day, we collected donations from health post workers and friends.  With the donations, we were able to clean and decorate the room with Valentines decorations, provide refreshments and empanadas, and give the attendants gifts to help care for their babies in utero and postnatal.  The gifts included:

Newborn diapers

Baby clothes 

Baby shampoo, soap, and lotion 

Diaper bag

And ultra-sounds. 

Due to the cost, some of these girls would never have an ultra-sound and we were able to reward their efforts to prepare for their baby with a paid for ultra-sound. 

One of my favorite gifts were hand knitted bonnets and booties for newborns made by a community member.   We also received donations of clothes for children 1-2 years old which we have stored in the health post to give out to patients who need them.  Cakes are a big part of celebrations here so I shared the American fun of making a diaper cake to give away some of the diapers! 

In the end, 9 pregnant girls came.  The youngest was 14 and the oldest was 20.  One participant came with her 2-week-old baby and mom.  2 of the boyfriends came which was great!  Everyone was very interested in all the information and appreciative of the gifts.  10 or so workers from the health post came to help and/or participate which was awesome to have such dedication from them!

More pictures from the event and site life in February! https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10201791779304735.1073741833.1489380075&type=1&l=118ea6f595

What it means to be a Gringa

"Your skin is so pretty! Not like mine, so dark and ugly." 

"Why did you die your hair?? Your blonde Gringa hair was so pretty!" 

"Do you know a gringo to marry my daughter?" 

"This is Miss Carolina - she is from the United States.  She is here to see who are the best students so they can leave Peru and study in the United States" 

These are some of the comments I hear on a regular basis (translated, obviously)

I have never had blonde hair a day in my life - sure, I bit lighter but never blonde. And this is seemingly harmless but when it gets carried further to say I am here to help the lucky few leave their country for a better life in mine - well, that is not only untrue but it directly continues the thought that Peru has nothing to offer and will always be secondary to others - especially the United States. 

A big part of my job here is working with youth on self-esteem, a concept that seems a bit fleeting and fluffy.  But when you examine the effects of a colonized country with a seemingly European and developed center and rural, indigenous, poor communities outside, self-esteem takes on a whole new meaning and level of need.  Not to mention the need created by the ever present and ever strong machismo influence.  

I have pressed the issue a few times, asking "Why don't you want your daughter to marry a Peruvian man?  If she marries a gringo in the United States she will be far from you and her culture?"  Or asking why the promotional calendars companies give out have white babies and children on them instead of Peruvians.  Usually the answer comes with a scoff and a statement to say because Americans are better, obviously. 

I had my first moment of noticing white privilege in a court room in Charleston, SC.  An African American requested a rescheduled court date so he could make it to family court on time that day, pleading that if he were a second late they would lock him out and make decisions about his children without his consideration.  The judge nonchalantly told the man to sit back down, he will be out in time.  Numerous African Americans were treated likewise before two young white college students had their moment for alcohol related charges.  Both white students were let go with minimal to no punishment, with the exception of a good talking to by the judge about how the white girl needs to be careful because she wasn't made to go to jail and wouldn't be able to wash the stink out of her pretty hair if she did.  

Living in Peru, I found white privilege is not unique to the southern states or even the United States.  With effects of colonialism, media, and history, being white is to be privileged the world over.  And this suggests that to be brown or black or anything but white is to be less than.  This is a result of a messy world history.  We say we know all people, all races, all ethnicities are equal yet in countless countries in countless communities, we are still acting as if there is a superior race and, conversely, inferior races.  

Sometimes I get frustrated to be a white volunteer in Peru, perpetuating the belief that all Americans, or the good ones anyway, are light skinned and light eyed. I look to diverse Peace Corps members, and while they have a completely different experience, I am so proud of their opportunity to teach our host communities and host countries that Americans are all immigrants and not being light skinned shouldn't mean anything.  

Sometimes the comments and questions are out of sheer curiosity.  In rural communities, they may have never seen a person of another race.  Getting asked to see my eyes, touch my hair, or a string of questions about the eye and hair color of every member of my family happens frequently.  And these moments, while sometimes exhausting to always be the center of attention, are amazing opportunities to share another culture, another way of life with curious community members.  

My experiences in the Peace Corps have made me more proud of the diversity of Americans and our sometimes drastic sometimes painstakingly slow but ever continuous moves towards equality between all people. 

Death and Grieving: A Cultural Experience

Death and grieving are part of the human experience - but how they are experienced is very much personal and dependent on cultural practices. In my almost 9 months in Peru I have witnessed a seemingly large quantity of loss and suffering. A family's two year old daughter.  My host mom's mourning of her mother's passing.  Another host mom remembering her daughter taken at just 4 years old. A friend's host family who lost a son.  A neighbor crying for the loss of 4 of her 10 children.  

While death is a part of every culture, there seems to be more of it here.  And even more terrible in how unnecessary some deaths are.  When I hear a friend's 2-year-old niece has a high fever, I do not think death could even be an option.  When my host nephew broke his leg, I did not understand the tears, prayers, and worry.  My wild child little brother has broken his arm multiple times and my parents took him to the hospital, got surgery or casts or whatever was necessary, picked up a pizza and called it an interesting day in the Langford household.  

So when host moms cry when we don't eat enough, or when we have a particularly hard time with the ever present diarrhea and don't call the doctors or take medicine, I didn't understand.  I didn't understand the worry, the panic.  In America we have colds, we get stomach bugs, and in a few short days life goes back to normal.  But now I have been to enough memorials, enough services, seen enough tears and heard enough stories from grieving relatives to understand that all too often that broken leg, that cold, that upset stomach can take a turn for the worse and end in death when first world infrastructure, medicine, and hygiene are not readily available. 

In America, as a culture, we recognize the inevitability of death and do what we can to remove ourselves from the suffering.  We go through the quick steps of visitation, funeral, and burial to put the grief away and continue on.  And of course we do.  Grief hurts. Suffering is hard. 

Contrarily, Peru drags out the process. There is a wake at the house followed by a catholic service and burial.  The family dawns black apparel and refrains from dancing or celebrating for a one year mourning period.  There is another catholic service at the grave after 6 months and again on the anniversary of the death every year, indefinitely.  The person is also remembered maybe through a service or maybe just by family members going to the cemetery on his or her birthday every year, indefinitely.  In this way, it feels the dead are never fully laid to rest - they are always present and continuously mourned.  

There is not a right or wrong way to grieve - just as there is not a right or wrong way to live. There are simply the different practices we adopt as cultures and then as individuals to best endure the suffering and best honor our loved ones.   

During my time in Peru, I have seen and experienced much death, as described above, and lost a great aunt at home.  Then just this week I read another story from a volunteer's experience of a funeral during her service in Ghana and read Mitch Albom's book For One More Day. With that, I decided to write on the different experiences of death and suffering in America and my host country of Peru.  

Happy Peace Corps Week 2014!!

This week is Peace Corps Week 2014! To see what life is like in coastal Peru, check out my friend Ali´s video on youtube (link below) which she submitted for PCWeek2014 competition "What I Wish People Knew About My Host Country."  Amazing and sometimes wierd food, beautiful sites, dancing, dancing, dancing, parades - she really shows what Peruvian life is all about!

Ali is a youth development volunteer in Pimentel, Lambayeque.  She will finish her 27 months of service this coming July.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZSiNQ_FOzU&feature=youtu.be

The Virture of Honesty

Being American, I am part of a culture that places high value on the virture of honesty.  People, each one of us, are going to sometimes make mistakes, going to sometimes disappoint, or are not going to meet all needs and expectations - that is life.  But - in the American culture - that is all helped by being honest with one another.

Peru does not share the virture of honesty.  Instead, Peruvian culture places more importance on protecting the feelings of others.  It is more importnat to not say anything that might upset another or make someone upset with you than to be honest.  And so lying becomes the norm.  People tell you they will be somewhere knowing they cannot be.  People will tell you everything is fine and they agree with you when that could not be farther from the truth.  This leads to a few things.

First, when we are not forthcoming about our feelings, we are led to act more passive-aggressively.  There is also the assumption that everyone lies and is probably lying about any given thing.  I have heard the word "mentirosa" (liar) so frequenty - And from my American perspective, I was shocked! What a strong accusation! Until I realized it is not as harshly offensive to be called a liar in this culture as it is in my own.

As I continue to live in and learn more about another culture, I find it so interesting that our cultures can have different views and practices in how we view so many societal practices, including virtues.

Feminism According to a Non-Feminist

I am a person fueled by passion - passion to help others, passion for traveling, passion for teaching.  But I have never felt passionate about the feminist movement.  As a female with a mostly privileged upbringing, I have never directly felt inequality as a woman.  I have always been surrounded by equally powerful men and women and supported by the men in my life to take on any challenge, any job, and any opportunity equally because I am capable without any consideration of my gender.  I have looked at the feminist movement as some people who found an inequality they were passionate about and I respected their work - I just didn't share the passion. And then, as is the curse of the feminist movement, I saw many feminists to be something more of a rebel without a cause looking to continue a fight fought decades ago.    

So my experience in a man-dominated machismo culture has been nothing short of a shock.  For the first time, I feel what it means to be a minority. To be discriminated against. To feel threatened and vulnerable. To be limited for no other reason than my gender.  To be sexualized in every way when I did nothing to elicit or ask for such sexualization. And I see the effect this has on young girls, teenagers, mothers, and older women - an entire gender pushed down in a society they very much hold together.

I will probably never be completely comfortable with the word "feminist" and I assure you, you will not finding me burning any bras, but I will live my life as an activist for gender equality and join the many who are passionately working for a world where no man or woman will feel the discrimination, vulnerability, or marginalization based on nothing more than a gender.  

First Activities in Cartavio

January and February are the months of summer vacation here in Peru and here is the work I have been doing this summer in Cartavio. 

Taller: La Dulce Espera 

One of my partner organizations is the local health post, here called Puesto Salud de Santa Rosa.  There I work mainly with the obstetricians and our first collaboration is coming quickly on Feb 14.  We are having a "taller" (workshop) on Valentine's Day for the expectant mothers between the ages of 14 and 19 and their significant others.  There are currently 20 adolescent expectant mothers receiving care at the health post and probably more in the community.  The workshop will cover health considerations for pregnancy at a young age and activities to help the teen parents care for themselves and their future while being parents (ie stay in school, get a job, fight depression, etc) 

Tutoring 

Through a connection at the health post I met a mother worried about her 14-year-old daughter, Melissa.  Melissa was born premature and has a physical disability in her leg. She has undergone two surgeries and cannot walk without the aid of another person or by holding onto the wall as she goes.  Melissa has been out of school for over a year because she and her mother were scared for her to change schools when it was time for her to begin high school (here called secundaria).  And so I am working with Melissa to get her, her mom, and a local high school ready for her to start classes when school starts this March. This includes tutoring in English and Math - requested by Melissa - so she doesn't feel self-conscious about being behind in the classes, setting up physical therapy if I can find the resources for them, and some afternoons drawing as she loves art most of all.  

La Academia 

During the summer there are free university prep classes offered by the municipality (local government).  In order to get into university in Peru, you must take a high stakes entrance exam offered in the fall.  The entrance exam determines who is admitted and who is not.  The national universities offer free higher education but have very few spots and the private universities are very expensive.  As far as I know, there is no such thing as financial aid or scholarships here.  The academia in Cartavio is preparing students for the March entrance exam to the national university in Trujillo.  Approximately 5,000 students will take the test competing for one of only 500 vacancies.  I have started helping at the academia to motivate the students. As the director says, the students have the ability to do well on the test but they lack the confidence and/or drive so I have been helping with that, as well. 

The rest of my time is spent getting to know the people of Cartavio.  I have a few friends I visit - a middle-aged owner of one of the bodegas, a young Catholic missionary native to Cartavio, a 68-year-old high school science teacher.  It is easy to get bogged down in the objectives and grand project ideas of the youth development program of Peace Corps Peru but these friends help me remember 2 of the 3 overall goals of Peace Corps are about creating friendships between Americans and host country nationals. So I hope I am doing something positive for the youth in Peru, but more importantly hope I am a good friend to people who have shown me so much hospitality and gratitude.  

Finding the Lows and Keeping Swimming - Poco a Poco

Peace Corps promises to give you some of your "highest highs and lowest lows."  In the past few weeks, I have experienced some of those lowest lows.  I made a tough decision with Peace Corps guidance to take a risk and change sites.  I did not know what community I would be going to, what family I would be living with, and the list of unknowns goes on and on.  It put me back at the beginning of service in some regards and brought it's share of anxiety with it.  

On Wednesday, January 22 the regional coordinator from La Libertad come to my old site and helped me load up my things while my host family and neighbors asked how quickly I could visit and if they could lock me up so Peace Corps couldn't change me. After "dar"ing palabras and besos, I rode about 3 hours south from Ucupe, Lambayeque to Cartavio, La Libertad. 

My start in Cartavio has been challenging to say the least.  I found myself in a host family with less freedom and more struggles for control over my daily life and community organizations that were more or less unaware I would be coming.  And in Peru, a country where formality and documentation runs business, nothing can be started or even discussed until the formal introduction between bosses takes place. It is also hard timing for a youth volunteer as it is currently summer break and all the schools are closed for vacation.  

After a long week or so of crying and forgetting almost every word of Spanish I have learned, I calmed myself down and got back to the hard days of integrating into a community.  Day by day and week by week I am making work connections and getting to know my new home of Cartavio.  I already have a few small activities going (see next post) that I feel good about and am working to make where I am living more comfortable, as well.  But as my language teacher Pablo always told me, poco a poco.  And so, poco a poco, I am finding my way in Cartavio. 

And even as I settle in here, I have already been able to visit my host family and street in Ucupe for the weekend and am thankful for my growing friendships with the people of Peru.  And like the crazy teacher I can be, I am looking forward to the start of the school year in March!